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The Timewarp That is Vicenza

Sabrina Friedman, Staff Writer

There's a historic yet energetic feeling bubbling within this fantastic Palladian city, one of the wealthiest cities in the Veneto. But the transformation you feel is far deeper than that of other cities; here, many claim, you will find the most breathtaking architecture in all of Italy, in addition to a wide variety of shops - from elegant to hip to old-fashioned - sumptuous cafes and intellectual locals willing to offer a smile or directions to any visitor.

The natural place for any visitor to begin their jaunt through this quaint yet bustling city would be within its churches, where some of the most awe-inspiring works of art have rested for centuries. After more than one thousand years, the art seems to speak for itself, to engulf viewers with a feeling of the period in which the pieces were created. (Note: Many churches will not allow pictures to be taken indoors - be sure to check with the priests or docents before snapping photos.) Of course, the churches would be the natural place to start. But in Vicenza, the museums and theatre houses may be a better place to start.

First of all, the museums and theatre houses far outnumber the churches in this luxurious portion of the Veneto, making for less tourist traffic during the busy season. Secondly, you will find greater access to better preserved works.

When you choose which museums and theatres you can realistically hit on your always-too-short trip to Vicenza, be sure to visit the Teatro Olimpico, which embraces the vision of some of the most acclaimed Italians in history. Teatro Olimpico (in the Piazza Matteotti) is the oldest standing indoor theatre still in use today. For Sophocles buffs, it might be of interest to note that the opening performance of Oedipus Rex was performed here in 1585. The Teatro Olimpico was significant at its inception because of its designation as the first Italian attempt at recreating a Roman theatre with nothing more than the descriptions of the great Vitruvius. While the theatre looks like a marvel of marble, it is really a complex combination of wood and plaster that was only painted to give the illusion of marble, then an expense too great for Palladio. Although more money and greater supplies were promised to Palladio, he died only a year after he began work on the theatre, before the money and supplies were in his possession. His prized pupil, a man by the name of Vincenzo Scamozzi, took over when his mentor died but refused to change any of the plans set in motion by his former master. The semicircular auditorium, with its thirteen tiers of seats rising proudly above the noble stage, was finished merely three days before its opening performance. The ceiling is a haunting reply of a dusky sky, imitated but never duplicated throughout the world in a variety of hotels and casinos.

There is more to visit in Vicenza than merely the Teatro Olimpico. But if you're short on time, this is the one to see. Should you find yourself with a few days to wander this city, be sure to visit La Rotonda, Monte Berico, San Lorenzo and Santa Corona for unique artistic, historical and educational experiences that are as captivating as this compelling city.

For more information on the varied yet glorious architecture of Vicenza, please visit The Architecture of Vicenza.


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