The Historical Beauty of Pisa

Pisa seems a little bit off. It might be because I'm an American not used to the ways of the Italians. More likely, however, it's Pisa's Leaning Tower, which is slightly emblematic of the city's culture -- a bit off but beautiful and glorious just the same.

Construction on the Tower began in 1173 but was suspended at the completion of the third ring, in 1183, after the soil settled 30 to 40 centimeters (cm), and threw the tower out of the perpendicular. This caused the tower's original overhang of about 5 cm. More than a century after the foundation of the tower was laid, the second round of construction began. In 1275, Giovanni di Simone added three levels to the existing structure, correcting the axis of the Campanile (Leaning Tower). In 1284 six stories of loggias were finished, which brought the height of the building to 48 m. The builders attempted to diminish, at least optically, the effect of the sloping overhang by raising the galleries of the upper floors.

At the time of completion, the slope of the tower was more than 80 cm. But the torment and vicissitudes of the tower did not worry those embroiled in the construction. The long intervals between building activity were explained by describing the need to let the Campanile 'rest.' But despite the greatest of explanations, the facts remained that both the foundation and the ground on which it rested continued to settle, sinking slightly into the Italian soil.

From its completion, the tower has served as grandstand for religious events and fairs. It rises 58 m above the foundation and 55 m over the level of the countryside, while its slope (measured from the foundation) is over 4 m. The overhang, despite attempts to correct and even halt it, increases at a rate of approximately 1.2 mm per year.

A trip to Pisa is not complete without a trip to the Leaning Tower. But what makes Pisa special is not entirely encompassed by the tower. It's in the simple standard of living, a rich history and a vibrant tradition. And if you're in Pisa on June 16, you can experience one of the most beautiful celebrations in the world right from the comfort of the nearest cafe.

Pisans have celebrated this event since 1688, when the urn containing Saint Ranieri was placed in the Cappella dell'Incoronata in the Cathedral (now named for the Saint.) The Luminara has been held every year since, with a few interruptions for war. The custom of celebrating with fire lights and gunpowder explosions is documented as early as the 15th century, so the real 'illumination' seems to have existed before its official, titled beginning in 1688. On June 14 of that year, Pisa celebrated the passage through the city of Margherita Luisa d'Orleans, wife of Cosimo II, with an elaborate plethora of candles, lights and cannons. As the centuries passed, the custom became ever more spectacular, partly due to the use of sham architecture (just a fancy name for machines) which altered and transformed the views of Pisa along the Arno.

Today, the event is a celebratory feast for the senses and the imagination that takes place on the eve of the patron saint's feast day. Pisa is magically transformed into an elaborate fairy-tale setting. The architectural details of the palaces, the parapets of the river and the bridges glow in the reflected light of more than 85,000 lumini along the lugarni, while thousands upon thousands of candles flicker their romantic light in tune with the gentle waves of the Arno. Sham architecture and a perplexing explosion of brightly colored fireworks above the Cittadella Vecchia make this event more exciting than Christmas morning to a child.