Taormina's Non-beach Resort

It's almost ironic. Taormina is Sicily's most famous resort, yet it has no beach. Travelers will be more than satisfied, however, with astronomical views of Sicily's east coast and Mt. Etna (so close you can feel the steam.) The city, rising 1000 feet above sea level, is located on a plateau below Mount Tauro, for which it is named, where ruins of a medieval fortress sit dormant, beckoning to visitors and promising a door into Taormina's rich past. Taormina's ancient Greek splendor, combined with Italian attractions, unique views and the Ionian coast, offer any visitor a deep impression of the area. A brief rundown of the city's history will provide any tourist with a greater understanding of the journey on which they are about to embark.

Taormina became a tourist haven late in the nineteenth century, when wealthy Europeans sought refuge from harsh winters along the warm shores of the Mediterranean. Russian royals headed for the French Riviera while German nobles for Sicily. Taormina attracted the more artistic nobles, from early photographer Baron Wilhelm von Gloeden to D. H. Lawrence. The British author was fascinated by the history of the city and was so inspired that he moved to Taormina in 1921. He based his novel "Lady Chatterly's Lover" on the events and people of the city.

Before Lawrence arrived, there was the long history that inspired him. Taormina was first settled by the citizens of Naxos, an older Greek settlement close to what is now Taormina, in approximately 395 BC. The Naxons were desperate to flee the tyranny of Dionysius the Elder, who, ironically, conquered Taormina anyway in 392 BC. The city was originally named Tauromenion in 358 BC, and this name figured prominently into the politics of the region in the following 200 years. The city supported Pyrrhus, King of Epirus, against Syracuse in 278 BC. Pyrrhus conducted his Sicilian campaign from Taormina, with the aid of some ten thousand troops. Taormina was one of the first Sicilian cities to support Rome during the Punic Wars. However, a slave named Eunus took the city during a slave revolt and, when the Romans entered to take control of the city, the massacre of the slaves was their first priority.

But that's not to say that Taormina gave in to the Romans. Not only did they eventually come to a peaceful agreement with them (about 100 years later) but flourished during the same time period as Julius Caesar. Unfortunately, it was again short-lived, for Caesar retaliated against the city for its support of Pompeii by killing most of its residents and offering their family homes to Roman soldiers. Thus, a long period of prosperity followed for Roman soldiers within the city.

Although is only merely 1000 feet above sea level, Taormina seems much higher. It might be a philosophical height, with the long history and fighting spirit of the city enlarging one's perspective and encouraging one to wax romantic about the times of Taormina past. But no matter the height, the monuments and attractions of Taormina speak for themselves. The Greek amphitheater was erected in the third century BC and expanded by the Romans, who increased the area of the stage and added a demi roof (which has since been destroyed.) The seating has existed since Greek times, and a seat within the amphitheater bears the inscription of the name of Philistide (the wife of Hieron II of Syracuse.)

The view of Mount Etna and the sea beyond the theatre is absolutely dynamic, and those who visit here without a camera will regret it for life. The theatre comes alive during summer, when tourists surge to watch the short, dramatic performances that successfully attempt to remain in line with the dramas of the original, all-male casts of yesteryear.

The odeon, a much smaller Roman theatre but nearly as old, is located near the Duomo Santa Catarina. The duomo was constructed upon what was once a temple dedicated to Zeus. Such temples were gradually converted to churches with the introduction of Christianity. Many of the churches on the island were built out of these temples. Locals will tell you which are the most sacred to the island, and visitors' brochures fill clueless tourists in as to which temple was which. I'd suggest buying a guide to the original temples -- they're all over the town and will allow any tourist to find exactly what they're looking for without a day-long search. (Yes, I speak from experience. Trust me. Buy the guide.)

If you're done sightseeing and want to bask in those glorious golden Sicilian rays, a cable car at the north end of town will carry you down to Mazzaro, a quaint village where the Mediterranean's bright blue waters lap softly against its finely pebbled shores.

The beach at Mazzaro is really two separate coves divided by a large rock rising about 50 feet above the water. Dense foliage grows all the way down to the edge of the beach and hides the small, colorful hotels and restaurants that face Mazzaro's main stretch. The cable car (called a funivia) glides to a halt across the street, a 30-second walk from the water. The beach can be reached by car or bus, but given the narrow, curvy roads, the cable car is really the only choice, especially during the heavily populated summer season. The beach is covered in very fine pebbles, small enough to walk on barefooted, although children may want "water shoes."

If you want to relax, if you want to explore, if you want to immerse yourself in the rich tradition of Greek Gods and bask amongst exceptional views from all angles, Taormina is a great place to start.

To read more about Taormina, check out Taormina: Its History Amid Tales and Legends.