Italian Train Travel: It's Not Amtrak

If you're looking for a cheap way to travel around Italy but still catch the sights, try Italian rail travel. But note in advance that traveling by train in Italy is NOT an Amtrak experience. There are plenty of things to watch out for, from extra costs in transit to thieves on the night trains, but if you're alert and conscious rail travel is a unparalleled, inexpensive experience.

You've probably heard nightmare stories from others who've traveled the trains. Understand that this does not mean crime in Italy in rampant, nor that you are risking your life by taking a train. In essence, by understanding how the Italian rail system works and what to watch for, you are making educated, informed travel decisions and following the advice of those who've traveled the rail before you.

First things first: If you know you'll be using rail travel more than once, invest in the comprehensive train schedule for the entire country. It'll cost you around 5000 lire, but it's pocket change. Not only will you know exactly what stops a particular route will make, but it'll only take you about an hour to turn you into a rail expert! Plus, for those of you not fluent in Italian, you'll appreciate the comprehensive schedule - no knowledge of Italian required! It's created as a service to tourists, and tourists who've used them agree that it's a great way to make informed travel decisions. Be sure to pick one up - especially if you'll be using the stops to explore various parts of Italy on your way to other destinations.

When deciding to travel by rail, look into the cost of the ticket thoroughly. No, not the ticket price they quote you, but the "Supplement" fees they don't always tell you about - until, of course, you're already in transit. I know of one traveler who was charged a 10000 lire supplement on a 30,000 lire trip from Padua to Venice. For the most part, trips that require a supplement will be marked as such on the timetable, usually in red ink. But always ask... you don't want to spend your last few lire begging the conductor not to remove you from the train. After you've purchased the ticket, you must have it stamped at one of the validation machines, located at the entrances to the platforms. For a trip of 200 km or less, you'll have six hours to complete your trip from the time of the stamp. For a trip of more than 200 km, you have a full 24 hours. But be sure to make it before the deadline! Some nastier conductors won't let you board past the deadline. I learned this the hard way, and it was a 10000 lire mistake.

In general, tickets for Italian trains are cheaper than the rest of Europe. I purchased individual tickets in Italy rather than use my Eurail pass - it was much less expensive and allowed me to use my pass for more expensive travel outside Italy.

What might cost you a bit more, however, is a reservation for the train. On busier routes, it is not completely unusual to spend more than two hours waiting for an opening. In order to do this, you must normally do so three hours before the scheduled departure of your route. Some routes, however, will take reservations up to 30 minutes beforehand. Check it out when you purchase your ticket - it's worth the minimal fee for a guaranteed seat, and it's still a bargain price for travel.

To avoid extra costs, don't bother paying for first-class travel. Sure, if you're used to first class, this might seem appealing. But in all honesty, coach seats are fine. In fact, they are the pretty much the same as the first class seats - there are just more of them! Also - overnight travel is an great way to maximize your time and money. But be warned: There are definitely a few things to know before traveling overnight by rail.

First, and most importantly: It is imperative that you reserve a couchette at least one day in advance. You can still find couchettes the day you travel, but they are first come, first serve, meaning that the men's and women's compartments are not separate. For the security of your belongings and protection from some rather unsavory characters that ride the night trains, make a reservation. Also, another thought worth mentioning is bringing a roll of toilet paper. I thought my best friend was insane when she told me about this, but she was right: There is no one to refill toilet paper on overnight trains. And, for some reason, it goes rather quickly. Make enough room in your belongings for a roll, and keep it with you: On the night trains, you'll be thankful you have it.

These are the basic ins and outs of rail travel in Italy. There's a lot to know, but keep in mind that you get what you pay for. For bargain travel, Italian trains can't be beat.

For more information regarding rail travel, visit Rail Europe or Real Stories from Italian Trains - What to know before you go.