Away in a Manger

Carolers rounded my block the other night. Their harmonious greetings were warm, despite the cold Missouri evening. While they sang traditional American carols, one song in particular could better describe an Italian custom: "Away in a Manger."

One of the most popular American Church decorations, the manger, has its roots in Italy in the 13th century CE. Giovanni Vellita was commissioned by St. Francis of Assisi to create a manger scene, in front of which, the Saint would perform a Christmas mass. Since Vellita's original manger scene, the pastori has inspired an entire genre of folk art.

The style of manger, or presepe varied from region to region. In Sicily, for example, the manger presepe was made of materials like coral, ivory, bone, mother-of-pearl, and other sea materials. Romans used materials from the country, like pine and olive trees, to create their presepes.

Presepes, like the one pictured, still are considered an art in Italy. In the center of Naples each year, a narrow street called the Via San Gregorio Armeno plays host to a festival of native artists displaying their presepe creations. At the Museo Nazionale di San Martino in Naples is an exhibit called "Il Presepe Cuciniello," which is a collection of manger scenes dating back to the 1700s.

While Americans have adapted the tradition of the manger, Italians celebrate Christmas in different ways than Americans do. Even the dates of Christmas festivities are different for Italians - they begin Christmas activities on December 17 and continue them through January 6.

La Befana

In America, children await the pitter-pat of reindeer feet on the roof "in hopes that Saint Nick soon will be there," delivering gifts children will open early Christmas morning.

Italian children aren't familiar with the tradition of Santa Claus and they wait an extra twelve days before receiving any presents.

In the Italian tradition, gifts are exchanged on January 6, the feast of the Epiphany (the celebration of the Magi's visit to the Christ Child). Meanwhile, instead of Santa Claus, children anxiously await a visit from La Befana (which means Epiphany) who brings gifts for good children and punishment for the bad.

According to Italian legend, the Magi stopped during their journey to Christ's manger to ask an old woman for food and shelter. She refused them and they continued on their way. Within a few hours, the woman had a change of heart, but the Magi were long gone. In penance, La Befana still wanders the earth, searching for the Christ child. She is often pictured as a fairy or good witch.

Twenty-Four Hours of Fasting

On Christmas Eve, a cannon is fired from Castel St. Angelo to announce the beginning of a twenty-four hour fasting period. Christmas Eve is time for little or no food in the Italian Christmas tradition. When the fast is broken, small presents are drawn from the Urn of Fate and Italians celebrate with a feast. A light cake called a panettone, which is a Milanese delicacy, is one of the customary dishes.

Besides the panettone, Italians enjoy other desserts. For a list of traditional desserts, click here.

Another traditional Italian Christmas dessert is biscotti. You can click here for a recipe of this Italian treat.

Christmas Decorations

The traditional Christmas tree in Italy is a fir-tree - or at least, it resembles a fir-tree as families often have artificial ones. Children hang colored balls and dress the trees in lights, symbolically representing the light that Jesus gave to mankind. And, as in America, presents are gathered at the foot of the tree for children to open on the feast of the Epiphany.

Along Italy's streets, you won't find men dressed in red suits with stuffing in their bellies...rather, you'll find Zampognari and Pifferai. In the Italian tradition, Zampognari and Pifferai were originally shepherd pipers from the mountains near Rome. Their character has been adapted through time and the two have become part of the Italian Christmas landscape.

And while Italy has many traditions that are unique to its culture, one custom in particular is shared with Christians around the world. Each Christmas, at noon, the Pope gives a blessing to the thousands who gather in Vatican Square - and the millions more who watch the benediction on television.

>From all of us at Travel-Italy, Merry Christmas - or, should we say, Buon Natale!